Witnessing a fashion show is always a fun experience. You get to see beautiful models walk the runway in the best fashion you can imagine.

You get to be a part of all the drama and glamour that accompanies such events. You also get to meet a lot of interesting personalities. Everything becomes a totally different story, however, if you are there as a photographer.

Photographers get to look at fashion shows in two ways: through the backstage story and what actually happens on the runway. This is the biggest reason why fashion photography is one of the most interesting assignments for photographers.

photo by See-ming Lee

Like any other form of photography, there are things to prioritize when photographing a fashion show. There are techniques to follow and tips to keep in mind. Although taking a picture of models walking the runway may look simple, there is a lot of story in how one photo is made. It pays to know and be prepared when covering a fashion show, especially if you are on special assignment.

The Preparations: A must for every fashion show

Before heading off to the venue, it is important to check and prepare all your equipment.

• What kind of camera (or cameras) do you plan to use? For backstage photos, a point and shoot will be fine as the room is almost always with good lighting and large space. Some will even have windows from where natural light can come in. You can also move around easily as you won’t need to focus your attention on just one area. The backstage is always abuzz with action. However, if you want to be safe, bring along your DSLR camera with a fixed focal length lens, such as the 50mm prime lens.
• For runway photos, your DSLR camera is a must. This requires more complex photography and techniques. Most photographers are comfortable using just one lens (usually a telephoto zoom lens). I recommend the 70-200mm or the 70-300mm lens. F4 or F2.8 will do.
• If you plan to bring two lenses, might as well bring two DSLRs so you won’t fumble every time you need to switch lenses. It will save a lot of time, which is important in a fast-paced fashion show.
• There are photographers who choose to use both their in-camera and hot-shoe flashes. The problem with in-camera flashes is that they sometimes make some photos come out too bright or too bleached out. Aside from adjusting your white balance, be sure to have something that can help diffuse the brightness of the flash. TIP: You should take practice shots to check out whether you’ll get the outcome you want or not. Survey the runway or area first before the fashion show begins. Usually, models and designers do rehearsals hours before the show. Get a hot-shoe flash cover to diffuse shots that are too bright or too white.
• Use hot-shoe flash for runway photos, but don’t aim your flash directly on the runway or on your subjects. Try to adjust your flash so that it either bounces off a wall or ceiling.
• Use a monopod instead of a tripod. Organizers will give enough space for photographers to take pictures. However, most of the time, this area will overcrowd. A monopod, which takes less space than a traditional tripod, is ideal for this situation.
• Make sure that your camera has a lot of memory space left. If you’re not so sure about this, bring extra memory cards. You’re bound to shoot a lot of scenes at a fashion show. HINT: less than 32GB memory cards will not do.
• Prepare your shots. Well, not in the literal way; but you should have an idea of what scenes you want to get from the backstage (models being made up by stylists) and the runway (full shots of models as they step into the spotlight). Your creativity should already start flowing even while you are still on your way to the venue. Some photographers keep a small notebook or pad where they jot down their ideas for shoots. You can also watch YouTube videos of big annual fashion shows like the ones held in New York, Paris, Milan and Tokyo. You can do the same for your fashion show coverage.

Shooting the Backstage Scene

The backstage is where a lot of interesting things happen. It is where all the models, designers, stylists & make-up artists converge and get everything ready for the show. You’ll be able to capture a lot of interesting stories backstage.

There are certain rules that photographers need to follow when shooting backstage scenes. The most important of these rules is to avoid taking photos of models changing. You should be mindful of this and of other rules that the organizers give you.

The backstage is where you first test your creativity. Imagine the scenes you want to capture. Be mindful of everything that’s happening around you. Find interesting and unique scenes that are bound to capture audiences’ attention. If you see a group of models comparing notes (about their runway choreography, for example), take a picture of them. Or you can get close-ups of some stylists working on models’ hair and make-up. Or maybe you’ll want to take a photo of models with the same hairstyles? It’s really all up to you and where your imagination can take you!

The Runway

Photographing models on the runway is an entirely different thing. On the runway, the models glide and sway. They move. You’ll need to practice your timing in taking the photos. You’ll also have to learn about techniques for choosing the right angle and the right shots. For example, when a model is walking, don’t take a shot of her with her feet side-by-side as this will look boring. Audiences won’t find anything interesting in this shot. Instead, take the shot when the model has one foot forward, suggesting that she is walking or moving.

photo by See-ming Lee

Aside from signifying action, this kind of shot will also showcase the designer’s work and the model’s aesthetic features (long legs, for instance). Accessories like scarves, hats, bags, or jewelry should also be clearly seen in the photo.

Your main aim in photographing models on runways is to show off the designer’s creations while also capturing the models’ elegance and grace. So don’t just focus on the models’ legs or one part of the body; take full shots that showcase the whole picture.

Stylists and make-up artists also do a lot of important work during fashion shows. As such, their work deserves to be in the spotlight, too. This is why you should take close-up shots of the models when they are at the end of the runway and have stopped walking. This is where they usually pose for a few seconds before walking out to change to a new creation. Use this moment to take a close-up shot that highlights the models’ hairstyles and make-up. Be sure, however, to focus on the eyes, as they will help tell the story (unless you only want to focus on a particular jewelry or accessory – like an earring or scarf).

You can get great close-up shots by anticipating what the models will do at the end of the runway and picturing the shot you want to create. Take note of interesting features – like big diamonds on a model’s hair or a bead or jewelry on the forehead – and use these as your focal points (aside from the eyes, of course!).

Fashion show photography is, in a way, fashion. It should be stylish, imaginative and unique. Just like the dress, your photos should convey true expressions that speak a thousand meanings.